Sowing the Seed

Why would anyone want to start plants from seed?

After all, by early May the garden centres are

filled with young plants ready to pop into the

garden. The best reason is that there are so many interesting

plant varieties that garden centres can't offer due to lack of

space. If you want the latest and greatest, often the only way to

get these newest introductions is to start them yourself from

seed. When they are available as transplants, they are usually

very expensive, so starting plants from seed is by far the

cheapest option. Planting seeds indoors is a good way to get

a head start and have young transplants ready to go into the

garden once the danger of frost has passed (usually around May

24 in the GTA).

Getting started

Starting seed is a fairly simple operation. Suitable containers,

light, temperature, and moisture are all that are required for

success. Plastic "flats" are available in garden centres, but any

container will do if it can hold two to three inches of growing

medium.Drainage holes are essential for excess water to escape

because soggy roots mean death to most seedlings.

The soil

For success, you need to use the right starting medium. Don't

use soil from the garden. Using outdoor garden soil is an

invitation to disaster. Garden soil is not sterilized and may

harbour insect larvae, bacteria, and possibly disease. Sand is also

a poor choice because it becomes heavy and dense when

moistened. This makes it difficult for fragile roots to become

established because very little oxygen is allowed to reach them.

It's best to use only a sterilized medium. You'll find a wide range

of different mixtures designed specifically for starting seeds in

the garden centres.

Before sowing the seed, you need to moisten your soil.

Although there are some exceptions, most seed is sown to a

depth of twice its size. Some seed such as impatien requires light

to germinate so you simply press them into the surface of the

soil. Mix tiny seeds like fibrous begonia with sand so that the

seeds can be more evenly distributed when scattered on the soil's

surface. Always read the instructions on the seed packet for any

specific needs.

Humidity, temperature, and light

A humid atmosphere encourages germination. This is most

efficiently achieved by covering the container with plastic. The

plastic acts like a greenhouse and traps moisture and prevents

evaporation. If light is needed for germination, use clear plastic.

Soil temperature also affects the rate of germination. You will

find that most seeds germinate faster and more reliably with

bottom heat. Special heating cables are available for this

purpose, but the top of the refrigerator is perfect, too. If you use

this method, be sure to keep an eye on your seeds. Once germination

occurs, the plants must be moved to a bright location.

As for light, fluorescent lights are great, but a south or west

window works too, provided that the sun's light is not so direct

that it damages the tender new seedlings.

Transplanting

When your seedlings are 7-9 centimetres (3-4 inches) tall, it's

time to move them into larger pots. Continue to give them

sufficient light and water. Transplanting can be a particularly

trying task for gardeners to undertake, not because it's difficult,

but because it requires you to be ruthless. There are always more

seedlings than anyone has space for. Novices to the gardening

scene have great difficulty parting with anything that has a root

on it. As you gain more experience though, you soon realize that

it is better to choose the strongest of the batch and transplant

and nurture those rather than giving a lick and a promise to

hundreds of little plants that sooner or later will end up in the

compost pile.

Acclimatizing

About two weeks before you are ready to transplant seedlings

into the garden, you need to harden them off or acclimatize

them to outdoor conditions. Do this by setting them outside in

a sunny location for a few hours every day. By the time they are

ready to go into the garden, they will be accustomed to the

elements and will transplant with less shock. The result is a

tougher plant that will be stronger and be better able to

withstand all kinds of weather. If there is a risk of frost, cover up

your plants with an old sheet or blanket. You can, of course,

bring them inside for the night. Just remember to put them back

outdoors the next day.

Planting out

Once your transplants are acclimatized, it's time to plant them

in the garden. Pinch each plant out of the cell pack, and if the

roots are compacted, gently break them apart a little. This allows

them to spread out and anchor more quickly into the soil.

Use a transplant fertilizer (10-52-10) at planting time. This

formula is best for root development and will help your

transplants become established quickly. Soak the young plants

for five or 10 minutes in the solution to make sure that the roots

have time to take up the fertilizer. For the first three weeks

use transplant fertilizer and then switch to a more balanced

formula (20-20-20) for the rest of the season. Annuals

especially benefit from a diluted dose of fertilizer every time you

water and reward you with masses of flowers all summer long.

Planting is as simple as making a hole, putting the plant's root

ball into it, covering it up with soil, and tamping the soil around

it. After that, water, pull the weeds around your plants, and

fertilize regularly. It's a sure-fire formula for success.